If your Samsung washer just displayed HE1, don’t panic. That code means the washer’s water heater is not functioning — the machine can’t heat water when the cycle expects it. This page explains what HE1 is, common causes, how to try safe do-it-yourself fixes, and practical preventative steps so you’re less likely to see this code again. The language is plain American English and organized for quick reading: short paragraphs alternating with a few clear lists so you can scan or read in depth.
What the HE1 Error Means
The HE1 error on Samsung washers signals a failure in the washer’s internal heating system. Modern washers use a heating element (or a thermistor/temperature sensor and relay) to raise water temperature for sanitizing or detergent activation. When the machine detects that the heater can’t reach or maintain the required temperature, it shows HE1 and usually pauses or cancels the heated portion of the cycle.
- The washer displays HE1 during or right after a cycle that uses hot water or when a cycle requires internal heating.
- You may still be able to run cold-water cycles, but heated cycles will not complete correctly while the problem persists.
Typical Symptoms Users Notice
If the heater is failing, you might see some or all of the following:
- The HE1 code appears on the washer display.
- Laundry feels cooler than expected after a “hot” cycle.
- Long wash times or cycles that stop partway through heating.
- Error appears repeatedly even after restarting the machine.
Common Causes
- Faulty heating element (burned out or broken).
- Loose or corroded electrical connections to the heater.
- Failed temperature sensor (NTC thermistor) or its wiring.
- Control board or relay that drives the heater has failed.
- Burned fuses or tripped safety thermostats inside the unit.
Quick Safety Reminder
Before attempting any repair, unplug the washer or switch the breaker off. Water and electricity are dangerous — if you don’t feel comfortable opening panels or testing components with a multimeter, stop and hire a qualified appliance technician. Small, careful steps are fine for checks; do not remove or replace major parts without proper safety precautions.
Basic Troubleshooting Steps You Can Try
- Power cycle the washer: unplug it for 5 minutes, plug back in, and try a short hot cycle to see if the code clears.
- Check your cycle selection: ensure you didn’t accidentally choose a sanitizing or high-heat program that requires internal heating.
- Inspect the outlet and breaker: if the washer isn’t getting proper power, control electronics may misreport heater faults.
- Look for visible damage: remove the back panel (after power is off) and check heater wiring for loose connectors, burnt spots, or corrosion.
- If you have a multimeter and know how to use it safely, measure heater continuity and the resistance of the temperature sensor; compare to the values in your model’s tech sheet.
How to Check the Heating Element
A continuity check is the most direct DIY test. With the machine unplugged and the heater isolated, set a multimeter to the ohms range and measure across the heater terminals. A normally functioning element will show a low resistance (a few ohms to a few dozen ohms depending on model). An “open” reading (infinite resistance) means the element is blown and needs replacement. If the heater has continuity but still won’t heat, the problem might be the control board or temperature sensor.
When and How to Test the Thermistor
- Remove the thermistor or locate its connector on the control harness.
- With the washer unplugged, measure resistance across the thermistor.
- Typical thermistors change resistance with temperature (higher temp = lower resistance). If the reading is obviously out of range or doesn’t change when gently warmed, replace it.
- Also inspect the wiring harness for breaks, chafing, or corrosion.
DIY Repair Options
If tests show a failed heater element or broken thermistor and you’re comfortable with parts replacement, you can order the exact OEM part and swap it yourself. Follow these points:
- Always match part numbers — many Samsung models use slightly different heaters or sensors.
- Keep track of screws and connectors; take photos before disassembly to help reassembly.
- Replace damaged wiring or harnesses rather than trying to jury-rig connections.
If the control board or relay is the culprit, that’s a more advanced repair: diagnosing a board fault requires schematics and careful voltage testing, and often it’s more cost-effective and safer to call a pro.
When to Call a Professional
- You don’t have a multimeter or feel unsure about electrical testing.
- The heater has continuity but still won’t heat (possible control board issue).
- There are burn marks, melting, or smell of burnt electronics.
- The washer is under warranty — an authorized technician can protect coverage.
Preventive Maintenance to Avoid HE1
Regular care reduces strain on the heater and electronics. Use the right detergent and avoid overusing high-heat sanitize cycles unless needed. Hard water and mineral buildup can reduce heater performance over time, so consider periodic descaling (follow Samsung’s recommendations) and keep the washer’s interior clean. Check hoses and electrical connectors for signs of wear during periodic inspections.
Simple Preventive Checklist
- Run a maintenance wash monthly (follow manufacturer guidance).
- Avoid unnecessary high-heat cycles.
- Keep water inlet filters clean to prevent sediment buildup.
- Inspect rear connections and power cord annually for damage.
Estimated Repair Complexity
Replacing a heating element or thermistor is moderately difficult for someone handy with tools and basic electrical safety. Expect 30–90 minutes of work if you have the right part and diagrams. Diagnosing control board faults or replacing a main board is advanced and usually best handled by a trained appliance technician.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: Will HE1 clear itself if I reboot?
A: Sometimes. A simple power cycle can clear transient electronic errors, but if the heater or sensor is actually failed, the code will likely return.
Q: Can I run the washer without a working heater?
A: Yes — cold-water cycles still work. However, you may lose sterilizing, stain removal, or detergent activation benefits from heated cycles.
Q: Is this an expensive repair?
A: Parts like thermistors tend to be inexpensive; heating elements and labor can cost more. If the control board needs replacement, expect higher costs.
Final Notes
The HE1 error is a clear sign the washer expected to heat water and could not. You can run a few safe checks yourself — power cycle, confirm cycle settings, visually inspect wiring, and if comfortable, test the heater and thermistor with a multimeter. If any test or inspection shows damage, or if the issue involves the control board, contact a qualified appliance technician. Regular maintenance and careful use help reduce the chance of this error returning.